Kyrgyzstan

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Tadaa ihr Autobahnbremser, Emil hier

     Der Pamir, ja der Pamir. Also mir ist immer noch etwas schmierig um die Kupplung. Ich sag’s Euch, das ich sowas noch erleben durfte.  Mir geht’s gleich wie der Lisi, finde keine Worte…

…die das Erlebte beschreiben könnten. Das Vakhan Valley das wir mit Cathrin und Brian durchqueerten war einfach nur atemberaubend und das nicht nur wegen der grossen Höhe. Die Schneebedeckten Gipfel, die unzähligen Fluss­durchfahrten, die Übernachtungen auf über 4000m bei irgendwelchen Schafhirten, die Nägel in meinem Hinterreifen. Ok das war nicht geil, aber mit Brians Hilfe haben sie mir schnell wieder Luft da reingekriegt. Auch hat meiner endlich mal mein Lenkkopflager nachgezogen, nun rattert es nicht mehr so heftig bei jedem Schlagloch.

Nun aber zu was Anderem. Heute Morgen sind wir fix über die Grenze nach Kirgisien geflutscht. Hier in Sary Tasch sehen wir den Pamir das erste Mal von der Nordseite, ein gewaltiger Anblick. Mitten heraus ragt der 7100m hohe Pik Lenina. Dünne Luft da oben. Wir schlafen in einer Garage in einem Homestay, wie geil ist das denn? Eine eigene Garage! 

Nachdem sich die Menschen satt gesehen haben an den Bergen, fahren wir weiter nach Osh. Eine Traumhafte Asphaltstrasse. Ganz etwas Neues nach dem Pamir. Auch neu sind die unzähligen Pferde hier, überall laufen sie frei herum. Auch mal gerne mitten auf der Strasse. In Osh angekommen begrüssen uns Ente und Kurt mit Kai und Stefan in einem netten Hostel. Die beiden haben die Nordroute des Pamirs gewählt und sind deshalb einige Tage früher hier angekommen. Wir dürfen in einem Unterstand, die Menschen in ihren Zelten im Garten des Hostels nächtigen. Am nächsten Tag besuchen wir die MuzToo Werkstatt etwas ausserhalb Oshs. Dort kriegen Lisi und ich nach fast 14000km neue Shinko E700 Reifen. Obwohl die Heidenaus eigentlich noch problemlos 5000km fahrbar gewesen wären. Aber Sicher ist sicher, wer will schon in China Reifen auftreiben? Lisi bekommt noch einen neuen Kettensatz spendiert und wir beide eine brandneue elektrische Benzinpumpe. Vielen Dank an der Stelle and Adrian, Daniela und die freundlichen Kollegen bei Schlatter für die Organisation und den Versand der Teile!

Zu sechst geht’s weiter in Richtung Bishkek, vorher machen wir aber noch ein paar Camping Stops um uns die atemberaubende Natur Kirgisiens reinzuziehen. Vor allem der Toktogul See hat es uns angetan. Sie schlagen die Zelte inmitten eines Hanffeldes auf. Ich glaube geschlafen wurde gut. Auch Arslanbob mit seinen Wallnuswäldern war beeindruckend. Nach der etwas abenteuerlichen Anfahrt dahin, überrascht Fabian mit einem Fondue inmitten der bezaubernden Berglandschaft, ein kleines Bisschen Schweiz in den Kirgisischen Bergen.

In Bishkek angekommen stehen wir erst mal ein paar Tage auf dem Ständer währenddessen die Menschen auf den Bazaren herumschleichen, gut Essen- und in den Ausgang gehen. Meine Halterung für den Zusatztank hat die Strapazen der schlechten Strassen leider nicht überlebt, glücklicherweise finden wir einen lokalen Schweisser auf dem Autobazar der das wieder hinbrutzeln kann.

Dominic der Berner mit seiner brandneuen AfricaTwin gesellt sich zu uns, er wird mit uns durch China fahren. Kai vollführt derweil im Hostel an seiner Ente eine Operation am offenen Herzen. Ein Stössel muss getauscht werden. Kein leichtes Unterfangen, aber er kriegt es gebacken. Ente schnurrt quakt wieder wie neu. Mit nicht wenig Wehmut verabschieden wir uns von Pony, Katie, Ente und Kurt und somit Cathrin, Brian, Kai und Stefan. Es war eine tolle Zeit mit Euch. Viel gelernt, viel Gelacht. Vielen Dank für alles und weiterhin gute Fahrt!

Zu dritt fahren wir an den Issyk-Köl. Den riesigen See im Osten des Landes. Wir geniessen die letzten Tage in Kirgisien bei herrlichstem Wetter, geilen Strassen und wunderbaren wilden Campingplätzen.

Auf nach Kasachstan!